New Look 6097 – overthinking it

I’ll start by saying thanks for your crossed fingers and wishes that I’d get my cast off last week… but unfortunately I was sentenced to three more weeks. Sad. So you’ll have to put up with a few more classy clashy casty photos… Luckily I’m pretty good at cast sewing now and it’s not really a problem. What is keeping me from sewing currently is being away for work for two weeks (I did not haul my sewing machine and all its accoutrements along with me, it seemed rather impractical), but on the plus side I’m in LA so I hope to sneak in a trip to the garment district for some fabric shopping! I also managed to make four things before I left, so I’ve got plenty to share.

I’ll start with New Look 6097, since I wore it today.

I liked this pattern from the moment I saw it – I mean, it’s a faux wrap top with a pencil skirt, in knit, with POCKETS! It took me a while to pick it up, but I knew I wanted to make it for what passes for fall around here. Now here’s the thing – I haven’t made a ton of New Look patterns, but I assumed they were about the same as the rest of the big 5 sizing-wise, so I made my usual SBA by shortening the length of the neckline edges. Which I have done on every wrap, faux wrap, and deep v-neck I’ve ever made. But this time I should have just left it alone. After finishing the neck edge in my usual way (zigzagging clear elastic to the edge on the wrong side, folding over and twin needle stitching on top) and sewing up the bodice sides, I realised that the neckline was too high and tight! D’oh! You can see it’s pulling the sleeve seams up on to the top of my shoulder. I think if I’d made no pattern adjustment it would have been perfect! That’s what I get for thinking I’m so clever with the fitting tricks. Oh well, it’s still wearable, and it certainly won’t be gaping at all under any circumstances…

I did frankensize this pattern quite a bit also. I cut my usual 10 on top, kinda graded out to a 12 in the bottom of the bodice, but then I got lost in all my clever grading and I think the front and back may have ended up different… and I went with a 14 in the skirt since it’s a pencil shape. Luckily it all worked out. Next time I use New Look I’m just not going to think so hard about it!

I didn’t make the belt, partly out of laziness and partly because I didn’t think I needed the extra bulk around the midsection. I know belts are supposed to help define one’s waist, but I feel like this one would have eliminated the scant waist definition I got from making the waist elastic as tight as I could. I tried it with some purchased belts and wasn’t crazy about them either – I just may not be a belt person.

In the end, I do like this pattern as much as I thought I would. I’d like to make it again, sans SBA, and at some point I might actually use the skirt portion to make a knit skirt by just adding a waistband – those pockets are pretty cool. I can see that they might not work in a lighter weight fabric, but in this thicker poly-lycra knit they lay flat and seem sturdy.

The fabric is one of the pieces I bought at Fabrix in San Francisco in August. I have no idea why it looks blurry in the picture, but for some reason it’s clearer in the back view.

My full pattern review is here.

So all in all, a solid work dress for not much effort. Save all the unnecessary adjustments, that is. Every time I feel like I’ve got this sewing thing figured out…

  1. That’s gorgeous! I love the wrap and pockets, and the fabric is beautiful. Another pattern for my list!

  2. A nongap wrap is a fabulous thing. Im sorry your ortho doc saw his shadow and you get 3 more weeks of casting!

  3. I love it…faux wrap, pockets, what more can a gal ask for? Looks awesome, even with the unneeded SBA! Rhe print, the fit, the silhouette are great. Can’t wait to to hear about the gems you find in the garment district!

  4. lovely! the fabric is fab and pockets in a knit dress – bonus!

  5. Becky said:

    Oh, this is a great dress, and it looks great on you. Since it is a knit, you can tell it is pulling, but it is not apparent to me. Those pockets are to die for. Must get this pattern…………..

  6. sewdjsew said:

    Nice look. Too bad about the cast, though. Have fun in the garment district.

  7. Yay for poly-based fake-wrap work dresses! I wish I had put pockets in mine, though.

    So if you’re in LA, and looking to go fabric shopping…well, you know how to find me if you need a partner in crime 🙂

  8. What a fabulously great looking day dress! It’s got the perfect balance of work and comfort in it, and hot-dayamn, you wear it SO well.

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