Wool jersey dress duo: McCall’s 5468 and Vogue 1224

I’m currently away on a trip for work – not very far away, but still stay-in-hotel far away. So I haven’t exactly been doing any sewing (though my knitting project has progressed to the point where the stitch changes, so I’m stuck until I can get back to the yarn shop for help), but before I left I was able to finish two dresses to bring on the trip, both from the wool jersey haul I picked up at the FFC sale a while ago. The first, completed in enough time to enable me to get a picture of it at home, is another Vogue 1224.  I’ve been loving all the mustard colored garments that have been popping up everywhere since fall, so I got some mustard wool jersey with the intention of making a cowl neck shirt from Vogue 8634. But when one of the students at my work wore a beautiful mustard colored, elastic waist dress with those butterfly wing sleeves the other day, I thought: “I want that.” So I pulled out Vogue 1224, (of which my previous version, after all, is my most worn dress so far) and committed my lovely mustard wool jersey to it instead.

This pattern is so, so easy. It’s almost absurd. This time I omitted the tie (so no buttonhole), made the neck elastic a bit shorter to make the neckline higher, and lengthened the front bodice (since me and like 50 other reviewers noticed it’s substantially shorter than the back bodice). I could have lengthened the bodice front and back a bit more, as it’s a smidge high waisted in the less-stretchy wool jersey, but it’s okay as is. It’s sort of a cami-and-leggings-under dress, since the jersey’s a little sheer. But I don’t mind, since it’s wool it’s more of a fall/winter item anyway. I do really like this pattern, and I think this version, as a solid, is fairly distinct from my other one.

The second dress I completed the night before I left on the trip. I literally finished the hem and immediately folded it and put it in the suitcase. I wore it today, and made one of my coworkers snap a quick picture with my (new!) iPhone (that camera is really nice – it has the same number of megapixels as my SLR! …but not as nice a lens, of course). The pattern is an older, OOP one I picked up in the sale basket at my local fancy fabric store (I’m thinking it’s from 2007 or thereabouts, based on an ad for a magazine printed on the back of the instructions), McCall’s 5468:

This pattern gave me its share of trouble. I got it because I liked the style, and it was very similar to an Old Navy dress I love. But crossover styles are always a pain for some reason. I made a few modifications, most obvious being that I finished the neckline by adding a band instead of the collar (to match the sleeve band, and because the ON dress has one). That, though, threw off the balance of where the crossover hit, and made the neckline too high. So I gathered a bit more at the bust and spread the bodice halves apart a little to make it lower (though maybe now it’s a little too low). Also, this pattern runs big. I cut a 12 on top and a 12 and a half on bottom, with a 14 waist (I’m being more conservative with sizes lately because the last couple things have turned out a little snug, stupid holiday food!), but it was huge. Huge. I took it in about 3/4 of an inch on both sides, sleeve to hip, for a total of 3 inches at the waist. Speaking of the waist, it hits in a kind of odd place. The bodice was much too long when I got the dress all together, so I attempted an after-the-fact shortening at the shoulder to get the bodice to make more sense. I wanted to go even shorter with the bodice, making it more of an empire waist, but I couldn’t get the shoulder seams to come in more with the sleeves attached, so it’ll have to do. With the low v neck and the sort of dropped empire waist, it’s got a kind of 30s vibe that I actually really like. I made the sleeves less puffy, too, by folding out about an inch and a half when I cut. The pattern illustration had me worried a little… I’m really glad I did it, the sleeves are perfect for me. It ended up being a great dress for this work trip, and I’m so glad I got it done in the nick of time! My full review is here.

I’ve got a couple more things cut out that I’ll try to get to when I get home tomorrow night (not to mention the Minarou sewalong, which has been proceeding in my absence!), but no more wool jersey for a while. Now I just hope I don’t ruin these dresses when I wash them!

  1. Great dresses! I especially LOVE the mustard yellow one, and have been wanting to use some mustard yellow wool for a skirt these past few months. Great color!

  2. Katherine said:

    iPhone! Woop woop!

    I started a blag too! missustufnel.tumblr.com
    Miss you, Aleah! I’m starting my crib sheet set tonight but now really want to make purty jersey dresses. Sigh…

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